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Although it touts itself as a hawker style Asian eatery, you’re unlikely to find such chic surroundings in the alleyways of Bangkok, even if the pace can be as frenetic and the noise levels as high. The black bamboo-clad walls, efficient staff and funky soundtrack are the backdrop to chef Leigh Power’s share-plates small and large, from the fragrant to the fiery – though some may find the latter too timid. Choose from such offerings as crisp prawns atop betel leaves with avocado and a tangy lime aioli, a feisty smashed papaya salad or, on the larger side, perfectly roasted ocean trout with a smoked ginger and lemongrass dressing. An aromatic duck-leg red curry comes with a side of nuggetty fried corn cakes to mop up the sauce. Desserts include tweaks on the traditional, such as banana fitters with cinnamon icecream, or the more adventurous coconut and chilli chocolate ‘splice’ with water chestnuts.

Wine Globe-traversing list with lesser-known labels and decent by-the-glass options; quirky Asian-inspired cocktails.

Score 14.5/20

-The Age Good Food Guide 2013